Naughty Times Two

There’s the bad naughty and the lighter cheeky naught. I witnessed both last night.

Walking home alone from the Souke, came the first naughty. Bad! Given there is little touching in public with the opposite gender (holding hands, hugging), and the firm grip the man had on the woman in the abaya, I knew something was askew. As the plain clothed officer was putting the lady into the van with flashing lights, my heart started beating faster. I know getting arrested here is not a good thing!  I really need to work on a more neutral facial expression because the Pilipino man who was walking by asked me, “You are scared huh?” I asked what happened. He told me two women went running by before Maghrib (4^th prayer time).  He then told me the obvious; “Maybe they do something bad.” While I see armed guards daily, this was my first experience with serious lawful misbehaviour. It was disturbing.

The second naughty happened a few minutes later. Coming onto the compound, the armed guard was jabbering at me. I think they really like Glenn and I partially because we wave, always offer a salutation, and most probably because of the Crispy Crème Donuts we bought for them the other night. Regardless, they smile and practice their broken English repeating the words, “Welcome, welcome!” While the guard was talking Arabic to me, I asked the security man what he was saying. The young security fellow smiled and said, “He wants you to kiss me.” Very naughty! I was laughing inside however; in my most dignified manner I spoke a firm “No” and walked away.

Is there a simple lesson here? Two times naughty doesn’t add up!

Getting Closer

Today I went to get Glenn’s exit/entrance visa so we can travel to Egypt in February. Although we had been to the passport office before, today brought new sights and experiences. Checking my list included;

ü  Glenn’s passport

ü  Glenn’s iqama

ü  photos of Glenn

ü  payment of SR 200

ü  my iquama

ü  patience

ü  more patience

Omar picked me up at 8:00 and off we went with the other 3.5 million people in Jeddah. The traffic was heavier than the 401 in Vancouver at rush hour, with no overflow lane and some traffic lights not working. At one point in the traffic jam, an ambulance was trying to negotiate through the maze of vehicles. The siren was wailing but no one was pulling over; few were even slowing down. I asked Omar if drivers were not required to pull to the right and stop. He responded with, “Crazy drivers, they no stop. Sometimes the person dead, it takes too long.” I couldn’t help but think if that was a driver’s loved one, wouldn’t they want all the drivers to pull over to let the ambulance through?

Omar’s navigation skills were challenged today. Parking was practically non-existent. While circling the perimeter and all the alleys, I did discover that the ‘downtown core’ where the passport building is, seems to be the hub of all business in Jeddah. I saw the labour office and other buildings related to government business. There were masses of people all scurrying with their papers and documents. After searching for about 20 minutes, we followed a man to his car and parked in his vacated spot.

No place to park, no problem. The sidewalk works.

Next came the typewriter service.  A gentleman typed the paper which was to release us on our upcoming holiday. Omar walked me to the office and told me to call him when I was finished. He told me he needed to come and get me.  I didn’t ask questions at that point; thinking maybe women weren’t allowed to be alone in this area.

I entered the same building as I went in the other day and walked up to the wicket. I waited and waited some more. There were probably 50 – 60 women in the center today. One older lady was chatting to me pointing to my papers and although I didn’t understand her, I knew she was trying to be helpful because of her toothless grin.  I finally talk to the officer and she sends me to get a service ticket. Although the wall clock read 00 the whole time I was there, today they did have a numbered system. After I received my number, I went back to the officer. Waiting patiently, I finally get to the window again. Now I am told I need copies. Off I go outside to get copies. Thankfully, I had to get copies the other day so knew where to go. The lady that helped me the other day was most obliging again today.

Back to the wicket I go for a third time. While waiting to get to the front, the friendly older lady was getting her documents processed. She was pointing to my papers and chatting to me again. Another lady understood some English and interpreted for the elderly lady. She wanted to know if my documents were correctly filled out. I thought that was an interesting question to be asking me. A few minutes later, I found out why she was so curious. The officer was methodically doing the old lady’s paper work, undisturbed by the ladies who jump to the front of the line and ask her questions. When it came time for the old lady to sign her paper, she reached into her purse and pulled out a cloth change purse. From the change purse came a stamp that was attached to a key chain. The officer took the stamp, dabbed it in ink and stamped where the lady’s signature went. This kind old woman was worried I might not have filled in my paper work properly, possibly because she was illiterate. So sweet, I believe in her way, she was encouraging me.

Finally it is my turn. Again the officer systematically goes through the paper work and then tells me, “Hallas.” It means finished. I asked her how long it would be. She didn’t understand and I couldn’t understand her answer. I wait again.

After 40 minutes of waiting, I notice the officer who helped me the other day is now on duty. I go to her window and she recognizes me and puts her hand out to say hello. Women are very friendly and a handshake is a respectful way to say hello to someone you don’t know that well. Hugs and cheek kisses on both sides of your face, is a greeting for those that know you better. I tell her what I am waiting for and ask her how long it might be. I get the standard answer, “Maybe about 5 or 10 minutes.” Inside I chuckle as it has already been 40! Sitting back down, I practice more patience. More time lapses and I return to the English speaking officer. I ask her to check for me. Hallas, it has arrived and I am handed Glenn’s visa ‘ticket’ out. Omar comes to get me and off we go.

While I was learning how to get an exit/entrance visa for my ‘sponsored husband’, Omar went to have breakfast. I asked him to pick something up for me too. Below is a picture of a typical breakfast. It is called ‘foul’ and is a warm bean dip. With it comes this pizza sized warm bread. While Omar navigated me back to work, I enjoyed some of the bread and dip.

Four hours later, we are ½ way there. Next, I will wait for my employer to prepare my exit/entrance visa. When it is ready, I will trade my iqama for my passport and God willing, we will be off to Egypt.

Iqama – Priceless!

Today was another unique Arabia adventure for us. Two weeks ago Glenn went to get his medical report done in order to obtain his iqama. Today we actually have his ‘Residency Iqama Card’ in hand! Another successful outing! The process was worthy of sharing a story.

Omar, one of our trusty AGS drivers took us to the hospital to pick up the medical papers. When he returned to the vehicle, Glenn asked him, “Am I alright Omar?” He is so sweet; he giggles and says, “Yes!”  We then called him Doctor Omar. He loved that!

With medical papers, 2 small photos and Glenn’s passport in hand off we went to the ‘Passport Office’. Oh my goodness! As Omar slowed down and we rounded the corner, we saw what resembled an open air market. There were eateries with several customers, men conducting business in portable offices, colourful beach umbrellas and a huge traffic jam. Obviously it was a popular place. We saw many men sitting with typewriters on tables, some under the shade of their umbrella, some with customers, some without. When I inquired if this was the passport place, Omar said, “Yes.” Our eyes bugged out of our heads. When was the last time you saw a typewriter let alone someone conducting business on it?

Finding a parking spot was Omar’s first challenge. After that, we found a gentleman who was not serving a customer. Thankfully Omar was with us as he was our translator. Whew! After the typewriter paper work was done, off we went to get a photocopy of Glenn’s passport. Under the makeshift open-air office, two women were scurrying around filling customer orders.

Driver Omar far left, gentleman who did Glenn's paperwork under the festive umbrella.

Next, Omar tells me to go into the building alone; only women allowed. I must have had confusion, terror, resistance or some other emotion showing on my face.  One of the dear ladies left her photocopy post and ushered me inside the building. She quickly set me up with a passport officer. Thankfully, the passport officer spoke a few words of English.  Another whew! After more paperwork, the officer took my iqama, Glenn’s passport and medical papers and put them into a little white box attached to the wall.  It reminded me of back home where the commercial tellers are behind a secure area. It didn’t appear there was any way to see into the ‘backroom’. My guess is there were men working in there and because they are not allowed to see the women working in the ‘women’s’ section, the white box system ensured segregation.

Next came the waiting along with about 30 other women. I forgot to ask how long the process might be so I took my seat and waited patiently. (One must have heaps of patience to survive here.) At one point I called Omar to ask if they were supposed to give me back Glenn’s passport. Personally, I don’t have my passport so I did not know what the process was. When I started to speak to Omar, several ladies turned to look at me. I expect it was because I was speaking English.  Who is that lady without the head scarf, with blue eyes and speaking a foreign language? It is very interesting to be in the minority.

About 40 minutes later, I thought maybe I should find out how long it might take. As I was waiting at the passport window, I heard “Canadianie”. I thought that might be a good sign given all other women looked to be from other parts of the world. Sure enough, as soon as I asked, the officer smiled and handed me Glenn’s brand new iqama and his passport. Third whew! As I left the office, I was smiling and thinking, where is that red Staples ‘Easy’ button?

 Glenn’s Iqama

ü  Visa from Canada $300.

ü  Visa in Saudi Arabia SR 2000

ü  Translated documents SR 200

ü  Application for Iqama SR 1000

ü  Medical tests in SA SR 250

ü  Typewriter Service SR 10

ü  Photocopy Service SR 3

ü  Tip for Photocopy Woman SR 10

ü  Cappuccino for Omar SR 18

ü  Glenn’s Residency Igama – Priceless!  LOL

As we were leaving the Passport Office area, Omar told me I need to go back to the same place to obtain Glenn’s exit/entry visa prior to going to Egypt in the beginning of February. Apparently there are forms I will need to fill out . . . . . . . . that may be worthy of another story!

Top Ten Lists - in no particular order

Downhill

1.  saying goodbye to our dear old Remmie dog

2.  realizing it wasn't feasible to take Trucker to Jeddah with us

favourite hanging out spot - soaking in the rays

3.  losing our dear courageous cousin Al to nasty ALS

4.  receiving the text from Tracie, that Kyle and her had separated

5.  being told yet again - fabulous portfolio of leadership skills, amazing rock solid interview, we offered the job to someone else

6. preparing to become non-residents of Canada (tons of work)

7. leaving Vancouver International Airport not knowing if they would let me fly from Toronto to Dubai. STRESSSSS!!

8.  Intensity of learning curve for the first 8 weeks at AGS

9.  Not being able to drive myself around in S.A. - "Taxi!"

Uphill

1.  cruising with Mom to Alaska in July

2.  witnessing the love, growth and maturity as Kyle and Tracie reunited - Thank you for hearing our prayers Lord!

3.  receiving two personal goals at once - an International posting and a leadership posting at AGS

4.  seeing Glenn emerge from behind the arrival room doors in the Jeddah airport December 3, 2010

5.  Keeping in touch with my family and friends via Skype and FB

6.  having Kyle & Tracie and Todd home for a few days in the August

7.  finding and purchasing a pocket coil spring mattress in Jeddah

8.  celebrating Mom's 80th with family and long time friends

9.  meeting new friends and brothers and sisters in Jeddah

10.  planning vacation spots - cruise on the Nile in February, a visit to Thailand, Greece, Rome, Philippines or . . . . . . in April

11.  grateful for all the fond farewell parties. Our friends ROCK!

Salmon Point

Comox 

Courtenay

Bates Beach

Yes, I realize the top ten lists don't have 10 each. However, 9 downhill and 11 uphill indeed make 20!!

A very Happy New Year to my North American family and friends. May you enjoy your New Year's celebrations and I wish you countless blessings throughout the 2011 New Year.



It Rains in Jeddah, But Not on the Lloyd’s Parade

Yesterday, December 29, 2010 we had real rain in Jeddah. Today, Thursday December 30^th, we had the same experience. Yesterday the rains started at approximately 9:30 a.m. and today about 10:00 am.

Because it only rains every few years in Jeddah, and because there is no drainage on the roads or buildings, the country and its people seem to get quite panicky.  In all fairness, historically speaking, there have been several deaths and major destruction when the rains fall.

Yesterday was a school day and the moms and drivers started to arrive to pick up their children as the first raindrops fell. Ironically, it was “Yellow Day” at the KG school. In our morning assembly with all adorable babes in their yellow frocks and trousers, it seems like it was going to be a bright and sunny day. Not so. Children left in a steady stream, similar to the water that flowed inside the building. With most children gone, we gathered the remaining children into classrooms where the water was not pouring through the ceiling light fixtures. We did experience some sparks. The water flowed under many window sills and indoor pools formed. Halas, all babies were picked up. The energy of the day reminded me of back home teaching at Miracle Beach when we needed to call all parents because of an electrical outage.

Wind and breakers on the Red Sea

This morning we went to the hospital to get Glenn’s iqama. Mission accomplished! On the way back home the sky opened up, instantly the wind tore trees, roots and all out of the ground, and within 2 minutes all vehicles on the road inched along with their emergency flashers blinking. Our trusty driver Omar, told us he couldn’t take us grocery shopping because it was too dangerous. Indeed the rains were coming down so hard visibility was virtually non-existent. Instead, he brought us home and I invited him in to have breakfast with us while the rain passed.

(Splash from front tires - Reminds me of the  spray from our speedboat)

Finally the rain tapered off and Omar dropped us at the mall to get some groceries. That’s where our parade got really interesting! With the shopping done, and Starbucks drinks in hand, we walked to the road to hail a cab. No cabs in sight, however, Mamdouah, an Egyptian business man was driving by in his jacked up suburban and said, “Please let me give you a ride.” I knew he was a friendly person but to be on the safe side, I pointed to Glenn who was standing high and dry one road away.  I told Mamdouah we were trying to catch a cab. He said, “No problem, I will give you a ride.” He backed his vehicle up and drove over to where Glenn was standing. We piled our groceries in and had the most pleasant ride back home.

We found out Mamdouah is from Aswan, one of the destinations on our cruise when we visit Egypt in February. He is going home for an extended holiday shortly and insisted we call him when we get to Egypt. Isn’t it so that we all want to share the special parts of our hometown with visitors?

As it turns out, he also invited Glenn to send him his CV for possible employment. So as the raindrops dry up in Jeddah, the rays continue to shine on the Lloyds.

Bring in the New Year!

Top left - Cabanna where I use to stand to catch the morning bus . . . .

Top right - main street (river) in Saudi City Compound

Above - rooftop view from our apartment - one driveway and road

Christmas in Jeddah

Between swimming laps and toasting at poolside, I wanted to write a blog about my Christmas experiences in Jeddah.

Interesting and foreign would be two words to describe my feelings regarding the Christmas season this year.  My school experience has been very different. Given that AGS students, parents and some of my staff members are Muslim, we have one day off; labelled Winter Holiday. Fortunately Christmas Day is on Saturday which follows the regular weekend days of Thursday and Friday.  Christmas crafts have been non-existent, no frantic practices for the Christmas concert, definitely no traditional Christmas songs nor family favourite sweets dropped on the staffroom table from grateful parents. (Parents however are very generous and often will bring a little treat for teachers who have been sick and gifts for the entire class when there is a birthday).

Thank you to beautiful Juud and her mommy for the lovely roses. This was 'White Day" at the KG building.

Another piece to the professional differences which makes this Christmas so different is that we are producing first term report cards on December 29. The seasonal cycle of report cards in BC is thankfully finished prior to the festivities and merriment of the Christmas season. Somehow proofing all teachers’ report cards, working with the programmer to eliminate the glitches in the new electronic report card and supporting beginning teachers with their first set of report cards has not contributed to my Christmassy feelings.

Interesting enough, given many Expats live and work in Jeddah, there are traces of Christmas cheer at various compounds. Some people decorate their balconies and palm trees, place wreaths on their front doors and hang ornaments from branches on their flower bushes. Because it never rains here, no need to worry about problems with indoor lights being outside or paper decorations being ruined.

palm trees and Christmas decorations!

beautiful bushes

Away from the compounds, business is usual in all the stores and malls. Back in Canada our stores are now blending Halloween and Christmas. Fortunately with the continuous advertising, one never forgets what the season is or the forthcoming holiday.

Reflecting on the times when I have been fortunate enough to travel to warmer climates at Christmas, left me to wonder why it still didn’t feel like Christmas this year. I expect it still felt like Christmas before because I still experienced the familiarity and build up to Christmas prior to my departure time.

Regardless of not having the familiar events of Christmas in North America, there are some special Christmas times for us in Jeddah. We went to a Christmas Eve gathering with friends earlier this evening. Unfortunately, Glenn didn't feel well so we left part way through the evening. Instead of eating turkey dinner with friends, I walked over the the souke and picked up dinner. Glenn enjoyed his first falafel.   I have had fun shopping for a secret sister and doing my best to scrapbook, made her a decorated box. I even found some golden snowflake paper to adhere to her Christmas box! I was also able to spread some Christmas cheer through some Christmas cards Glenn brought over for me.

Believing there won’t be any Boxing Day sales J, Glenn and I will enjoy Christmas Day shopping for a special gift for one another.  Tomorrow morning we might go to the American Corner in the souke and enjoy a Christmas breakfast. Eggs and toast (no bacon). Before we go for breakfast, I will hang the candy canes Glenn brought from Canada on the other teacher's doors. The evening will include a feast with colleagues at the potluck Christmas turkey dinner.

Looking back on my month of December, I have had no shopping stresses, no gala Christmas parties to attend, no kitchen clutter resulting in mounds of delicious treats, or fretting about road conditions. Do I miss some of those events? Yes.

Regardless of the differences and missing some of the traditional Christmas events this year, in my heart, I still remember and adore the reason for the season. May God bless you and yours this Christmas.

We wish you a very Merry Christmas from sunny Jeddah in Saudi Arabia.

Glenn's Arrival in the Kingdom

After an unexpected weather related delay in Heathrow International Airport, and spending 19 hours exploring it, it is an airport he now knows well. Touchdown in Jeddah, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, happened on December 3rd, 2010.

• Heathrow Airport England

 Glenn’s first experience was one of his wife arguing with the taxi driver and manager because the company was going to charge us twice as much as appropriate for a ride to our compound. After settling in the cab, all bags in the trunk, the cab driver told us what he wanted to charge us. Given the feistiness of his beloved, we promptly disembarked and waited for a cab I called. It is common to barter for everything. (Cabs, merchandise, hardware, even groceries)

Although many things are different in Jeddah, one of the things that strikes Glenn personally, are the roadways. There is every conceivable brand of high end automobile to be seen every day as we walk along the highway. Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Royals Royce, Mercedes and especially his favourite car; the Audi R8 which he has rarely seen in North America.

Also, yellow pedestrian crosswalks seemingly are only on the roadways for show. No one stops when you are in it or approaching it. Added to this, all crosswalks are marked only at the round-abouts which are anywhere from 3 – 5 cars deep. Interesting . . . . Glenn thinks we should have t-shirts with the logo ‘I survived crossing the road in Jeddah’. Because gasoline is so cheap (6 cents per litre – REALLY), everyone drives their cars. (It probably has to do with the intense heat too). Initially, sidewalks were planted with beautiful trees in the middle of them. Over time these trees have grown so walking on the sidewalk is difficult. When the sidewalk squeezes us to the road, it is hard to outrun the above mentioned vehicles!

• Round About in Saudi City Compound where we live. The white and blue structure in the background  is a water tower which supplies water to our compound. It is huge and can be seen from kilometers away.  I trust it is well maintained - otherwise we may wished we lived on the third floor instead of the first!

There are many things of contrast here.  Glenn is very impressed with the variety of the architecture. We see very old styled Arabic buildings with rounded Mosque roofs built with bricks upon brick, to ultra modern glass skyscrapers similar to Vancouver and New York.  We have shopped in the open market souk to three story malls. We have eaten shwarmas, Chinese food, and Lebanese food, croissants, Baskin and Robbins ice-cream and yesterday, even had a Starbuck’s frappuccino.  We probably have eaten out more in the past two weeks than we have in the past six months! We have so much to explore.

• Glenn using the electronic directory (that didn't work) in the three story Red Sea Mall

We are so happy to be reunited and are adjusting to the different pace and interesting challenges and experiences here in Jeddah.