Intoxicating India

Leaving Canada to live abroad, we knew there would be amazing opportunities to travel and broaden our perspective of our world. We were clear we did not have any desire to travel to Africa or India. One of the blessings of living abroad, are our minds continue to be opened! We are grateful for that.

Hence, our travel adventure in January was a ten day trip to Goa, India. Goa is a small province in south western India. It was liberated in 1961 after a long battle with the Portuguese, Hindu and Muslim people. As a result, the evidence of Christianity, Hinduism and some Muslims intermingle freely. Goa is nestled next to the Arabian Sea and offers natural greenery and scenic beauty. Its abundant long luscious beaches, silky smooth sand, temples and churches, hospitable and friendly locals are a trump card for all those that visit.

We had a long layover in Mumbai after a red-eye from Jeddah. After delayed flights we finally arrived in Goa. Roi, our pre-arranged driver met us at the airport. Wanting to capture my first impressions, I tried to take a few shots at the airport. Opps! No photos allowed! Outside the airport were these bright and cheery welcoming flags. Those flags were indicative of how bright colours are central to the Indian culture. Homes, traditional dress, bangles, spices, buildings, and fingernails painted on the beach, all displayed vibrant colour.

Welcome to cheery Goa!

We made our way north to Baga Beach, about 1 hour from the airport on windy, narrow, busy and chaotic roads. And yes, they drive on the opposite side of the road.

 Our first stop was at Zeal Resort. This is a cluster of apartment buildings with a refreshing pool and friendly workers. The location was away from the noisy party strip at Baga Beach and yet close enough to walk to the beach.

Our long time and dear friends Bob and Dawn Pomponio joined us the next day in the morning. Actually, they had the desk clerk break into our apartment, we were so tired from our travel we missed the pounding on the door!

Off we went to explore with Roi to Old Goa. Here we saw several ancient churches; including St. Francis Xavier. We got out of the van and before we knew it, we had 8 long slim white candles. Dawn was trying to tell us to give them back; I was paying the man a few meagre rupees. Making our way to the church, we wondered what we would do with the candles. It did make for a great laugh. The people are very clever, hard working and make a few rupees in various ways!

 St. Francis Xavier alter - laiden with gold

On our Old Goa trip, we stopped at the ruins of the Church of St. Augustine. Left standing is a tall tower and several arches where people would go to pray. Across the street is The Museum of Christian Art. The artifacts in this museum are old, rare and drip with history. We saw old bibles, figurines, brass candlestick holders, porcelain figures, art pieces and paintings of the Holy Trinity, replicas of Jesus and Mary, crosses and many worthy pieces.

Following the Old Goa tour, Roi took us to the capital of Goa, Panjim. Here we lunched at Delidelbar. Our first taste of yummy garlic cheese nan bread. Every meal following consisted of a standing order of garlic cheese nan bread! Following our delicious spicy lunch, we went to the local market and bought everything from glass bangles to fresh grapes. Dawn and I had fun and chatted with a couple of ladies who were helping us pick from the thousands of colours and styles of bangles! We asked them about the red dot on their forehead and they told us that meant they were Hindu. Ladies like to wear ‘fashion jewellery’ to indicate their faith choice, beyond the washable red dye.

Dim lights in Delidelbar restaurant are compensated by 'reading lights'!

Given we had been ‘dry’ in the sandbox of Saudi Arabia, we enjoyed beverages at a local open-air restaurant and bar called Liquid Lounge. Unfortunately, there was a small impromptu garbage dump on the same corner and we had our first glimpse at ‘garbage cows’.

Baga Beach was about a 15 minute walk away and we toasted in the Indian sun the next day. Every type of vendor comes along asking if we wanted to purchase their wares. I indulged with a manicure. One woman had an incredibly strong back and neck. In her basket, which she needed a local to help her lift and perch it on her head, she carried watermelons, mangos, coconuts, pineapples; not the lightest of fruits! After the beach we went for a massage which is always interesting how different cultures fine-tune a massage. Filling our tummys once again, I would highly recommend Indian Spice Restaurant if you are ever in Baga Beach. More delicious foods, more thirst quenching beverages!

Little further north, at Arpora, just north of Baga Beach, we went to the Saturday night market. Wow! It reminded me of a blast from the past. Displaced hippies along with locals offered quite a shopping experience. Dawn was a little stressed out with the bartering and given I had been in Jeddah for the past 1 ½ years, I think she had several opportunities for one on one mentoring! The market was fun but really crowded. The live music was enjoyable and we finished the evening with a nan-bread pizza.

delicious crunch snacks that look like cheesies, are sweet with sesame seeds

Heading south to Benallim Beach took us about one hour on a bumpy twisty crowded road. When we arrived at the Royal Goan Beach Club it was a castle compared to many of the Indian hotels and resorts. The swim up bar was convenient and the restaurant served us a tasty breakfast. We enjoyed several pots of masala tea throughout our stay.

The long white beach of Benallim was about a 10 minute walk away and we met the vendors along the way. Tina, Lol, Sylvia, Preema all wanted us to ‘remember me’ when we walked by. These ladies were not locals, rather were from other parts of India and came to Goa during the high season to make their incomes. They were sweet and we chatted with them daily.

On the beach, were open air restaurants which also served as ‘homes’ after hours. The owners would push the tables together; wrap up in a blanket and drape a mosquito net over their table/bed. It was in one of these restaurants I got brave and tried fresh tandoori fish. It was spicy, piping hot and is a common spice for Indian food.

The next day we took a day trip to Ponda to see the Temple of Peace and to Curti to visit the spice plantation. We enjoyed ginger and lemon grass tea upon arrival and toured some of their grounds. Big elephants were bathing in the river, one popping giant kaka! After our tour, we were served lunch complete with spices from their farm. We asked our driver to take us to a carpet store. Of course we fell in love with the best quality silk run, smooth golden brown which provided a kaleidoscope of colours from all three sides. We decided to sleep on the decision to purchase it and in the end we didn’t acquire it.

cashew nut

one shot of cashew 'juice'

Martin’s Corner, a restaurant with a history, was a few minutes drive from our resort and offered us an amazing meal. Martin who has now passed, had a dream to open a restaurant. He started with a few tables and today the restaurant is a vibrant and fun dining experience, complete with live music. Glenn had fresh lobster and Bob and I shared Pomfret fish. We all had too many drinks, so many laughs and a wonderful evening with extraordinary friendly and fun Indian service.

Another mini road trip took us to Adil Shah’s Fort, Anjuma Flea Market and to the capital of Goa, Panaji. Adil Shah’s Fort is perked high upon the bluff and offered protection for would be invaders in years gone by. We walked around on the inner edges of the high walls and enjoyed spectacular views of the Indian Ocean. The flea market stretched for kilometers and offered every type of item you could possibly imagine. Even the cows liked to shop as they wandered freely through the venue! I purchased tandoori spice, bryannie spice, masala tea leaves, shoes, tops, bangles, handmade woden mind twisters and more.

As we finished up our trip, we were privy to witness the patriotical hearts of Indians. It was National Day and flags were flying and one Indian woman sang Acapulco, belting out India’s National Anthem. It was a special moment and there was not a dry eye in the house.

Today we still enjoy the memories and photos of Intoxicating India. We are so grateful to those that travelled before us and encouraged us to try India too!

offerings; even the bird likes them!